But if you want to maximize your yield and minimize your effort, you’ll want to keep reading for some step-by-step tips for growing cherry tomatoes on your patio or deck. Overall, cherry tomatoes were made for living life in pots. Plus, the superior drainage and limited soil in containers make adjusting nutrient ratios much easier than in in-ground gardens. Pots will also keep these sensitive plants out of the reach of pests and give them enough airflow to reduce the incidence of disease. Both these traits make growing cherry tomatoes as close to your door as possible the best choice. And, when they do start making fruit, they do so almost constantly. They grow fast and require a lot of maintenance to preserve their shape and help them produce the optimal amount of fruit. These sweet little plants love attention. While most people might see a lack of yard and limited space as a negative when talking about gardening, there are actually some benefits to growing your plants in containers rather than putting them in the ground.įor starters, potted plants are a lot easier to keep weed-free and can save on water and fertilizer use.īut, when looking at cherry tomatoes specifically, the benefits go much further than that. Why You Should Grow Cherry Tomatoes in Pots (Even if You Have a Garden!) Luckily, though, with a few simple tips, even the novice gardener can get a bountiful harvest of these sweet tomatoes with a little work and even less space. And that characteristic combined with their love of warm soil, desire for constant tending, and bushy shape makes them perfect for container gardening.īut if you think getting these babies to produce in a pot is as easy as slapping them in the soil and putting them in the sun, you might not get the results you’re hoping for. Tomatoes used in sauces can be kept frozen to store.Few vegetable plants produce with quite the same vigor as the cherry tomato. So use them a soon as possible after harvesting. Don't keep your harvested tomatoes in the fridge. Tomatoes can't be kept for a long period. Harvest the tomatoes by cutting them with scissors. Remove all the leaves of all plants together with the tops of all plants from the end of August till the beginning of September to ensure the ripening of most of the green tomatoes. Remove all the leaves below the lowest hanging fruits by the end of July till the beginning of August. Remove all suckers that will form in the axils of your plants. Give the plants a sturdy support with some sturdy and large bamboo sticks. Tomatoes need some maintenance to ensure a good harvest. Make sure that there is no longer any nightfrost. Put the plants outdoors after this week on a sunny and sheltered plot with well draining soil or put them in a greenhouse. Put the pots at a temperature of 15 - 18 ☌ for a week and reduce the amount of water for this week. Harden the tomatoes of, from the middle of May, when there's no longer any danger of nightfrosts. Transplant the seedlings to seperate pots approx. Remove the clingfilm or lid when the seedlings emerge. Keep moist, but not to wet to prevent rotting of the seeds. Keep the temperature as even as possible and don't let the temperature drop during the night. Put the trays away somewhere warm at 20 - 25 ☌ and cover them with clingfilm or a lid. Sow shallow and press the seeds gently in the soil, don't cover them with soil, because tomatoes are light germinators. Sow indoors from February on in trays filled with moist pottingsoil. Planting position: sunny - sheltered (greenhouse) Transplanting in garden: in May, after the last night frosts Transplanting: when the seedlings are about 20 cm tall
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